Ama Dablam Season Opens as Rope Team Summits in Fine Weather

The autumn season on Ama Dablam is open. A seven member rope fixing team reached the summit at 11:40 a.m. on October 13, 2026, Nepali time, and opened the route on the 6,812 metre peak in the Everest region.

The team fixed roughly 800 metres of rope in about five hours. Conditions helped. The weather was fine, with light wind, and the team moved fast to the top.

With the ropes in place, hundreds of climbers can now move up the mountain. They will acclimatise first, then push for the summit. The first commercial groups are expected to move in the coming days.

Who opened the route

The seven climbers were Pasang Nuru Sherpa, Tenzing Gyaljen Sherpa, Lakpa Tenji Sherpa, Mingma Tenzing Sherpa, Ang Tashi Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa and Pasang Tendi Sherpa.

Sources named Seven Summit Treks as the manager of the team. Summiters Club reported that Imagine Nepal expedited the work. Tashi Sherpa of Seven Summit Treks said many more climbers are expected on the mountain this season.

Rope fixing is hard, exposed work. The team carries rope, anchors and gear high on the peak and secures the line that later climbers will clip into. Without that line, commercial teams do not move up in number.

A famous peak with a hard test

Ama Dablam is a striking pyramid peak in the Everest region. Climbers call it the Matterhorn of the Himalaya. Autumn is its main season.

American climber Darby Jones, quoted by ExplorersWeb, called Ama Dablam the entrance exam for Everest. The line fits the mountain. The peak is lower than the 8,000 metre giants, but its steep ground tests climbers who hope to go higher later.

For many climbers, Ama Dablam is both a goal on its own and a step toward bigger peaks. A summit here shows they can handle altitude, steep ice and rock, and long days in cold wind.

A season shaped by snow

The summit came days after Cyclone Montha brought snow that hampered climbing on some 8,000 metre peaks. The post monsoon season drew a blank on the 8,000 metre peaks this year.

The last commercial groups on Manaslu retreated on October 10. That retreat closed a hard stretch on the big peaks, even as the mid size autumn season opened on Ama Dablam.

The contrast tells the story of this autumn. High peaks stayed out of reach for commercial groups. Ama Dablam, with fine weather on the day the rope team moved, gave the season a start.

Key numbers

• Peak: Ama Dablam, 6,812 metres, in the Everest region of Nepal
• Summit: 11:40 a.m. on October 13, 2026, Nepali time
• Team: seven climbers fixed the route
• Rope fixed: roughly 800 metres in about five hours
• Weather on the day: fine, with light wind
• Next: hundreds of climbers can now acclimatise and attempt the summit

What happens next

Commercial teams will move up the mountain in the coming days. They will climb in stages, sleep high to adjust to the altitude, and wait for their own weather window.

The season runs through the autumn window. If the weather holds, the fixed line will see steady traffic. If wind or snow returns, teams will wait in camp, as they always do in the Himalaya.

For now, the route is open, the first summit of the season is done, and Ama Dablam is back in business.